COURSE
REVIEW
Waterton Lakes
Golf Club: Canada's Relic in the Rockies
By Andrew Penner,
Contributor
WATERTON LAKES, ALBERTA (June 11, 2004) -- The story goes like this: They picked him up drunk at the rail station. He was tired, sore, and not all that happy about getting his bones - and his cheap martinis - shaken and exhaustively stirred for two full days on the train. Plus, he was venturing into the middle of the Canadian wilderness. But in the mid 1930s, towards the end of his remarkable career as a golf course architect, the famed Stanley Thompson , a.k.a. "The Toronto Terror," (Banff Springs, Jasper Park Lodge, and Highlands Links are just some of his timeless masterpieces) made one last "statement" in the Canadian Rockies. Although the Waterton Lakes Golf Club is certainly not the equal of Banff or Jasper, and Thompson himself spent only a few days on the site, there is plenty of evidence of the master's hand.
Short (it plays just under 6,200 yards from the back tees, par 71), quirky, exposed to a constant wind, rudimentary in much of its shaping and design, and often lacking in conditioning, there are many justifiable knocks against this almost completely untouched relic in the province of Alberta's far southwest corner, where, as the park's slogan suggests, "the Prairies meet the mountains." But, just as there are those who are quick to point out its weaknesses, there are many who swear by it, who are charmed by its simple, backwoods appeal, its glorious mountain-veiled setting, its fairways that teem with wildlife.
They
started playing golf in Waterton in the early 1920s, well before
Thompson made his cross-country trek to help with the design and
implementation of an 18-hole route. The early games were played
on a roughshod course, tee markers and greens set haphazardly
on the mostly open, rocky, and stunted-tree terrain directly beneath
the mighty explosion of rock on the course's western boundary.
The early golfers here were mainly park employees, recreational escapists, the early keepers of the game, who realized that this was, indeed, inspiring terrain for golf. And, in that respect, not much has changed.
Waterton National Park, the Canadian counterpart and neighbour to Montana's famed Glacier National Park, is still the major player here when it comes to local support. The park, although not nearly as popular as Canada's other national parks - Banff, Yoho, Revelstoke, Jasper, etc. - is smitten with chiselled peaks, trout-filled lakes, and red rock canyons that hikers and sightseers have been drawn to for years.
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Besides the heralded mountains, the Prince of Wales Hotel is the historic icon, the visionary stronghold, of the park. Perched on a rocky spit of land high above Waterton Lake, the hotel speaks volumes of what this place is all about.
Built in 1926, the hotel features an elegant but rustic Swiss theme, complete with high gables, carved beams, and ornamented balconies. But, like the tiny village of Waterton, the hotel never really blossomed like the fabled Banff Springs Hotel, the Chateau Lake Louise, or the Jasper Park Lodge . Today the hotel, although clean, and relatively well restored, can be a lonely place. Clinging to the rock on its treeless promontory, it seems almost inevitable that, one day, it will finally buckle and yield to the fierce winds that continuously batter its walls.
And
such is the case at the Waterton Lakes Golf Course. Facilities
are old, the parking lot still gravel, and one gets the feeling
that little has changed in 80 years. That wouldn't be far from
being the case.
Those who require agronomic perfection (the greens are iffy and hoof prints abound), contemporary design, and a 7,000-yard challenge complete with hand towels and GPS-equipped carts will walk away disappointed. But for those who revel in the vintage game, truly subscribe to the "play for the fun of it" approach, and thrive in alpine amphitheatres, there is much to offer here. For one thing, the price is right for everyone (Cdn$33 for 18 holes), and the golf exudes a simple, down-home feeling that the big-ticket courses simply cannot have.
But, make no mistake about it, there are holes here that are as good - as fun to play - as any from the big-name courses. The par 5s, for example, are all birdie-able holes that sweep up hills and rise to greens framed by mounds. The premise is simple and exciting: pick a spot on the mountain, a hopeful line, and shoot for glory. A number of par 4s are drivable, their greens sunk in depressions or tucked in pockets of aspens. But it's the par 3s that will really keep you on your toes. Thompson was a par-3 perfectionist, crafting the famous "Cauldron" hole in Banff, "Cleopatra" and "Bad Baby" in Jasper. Clearly, in his opinion, the par-3 hole warranted special attention.
The
fourth is the first of the one-shotters and requires a long, semi-blind
shot to a small green sandwiched between stunted trees. Then there
is the wickedly long seventh that plays predominantly into the
prevailing wind. At 247 yards, there is no tougher par at Waterton,
or perhaps Alberta, than this man-maker.
The par 3s on the back are nearly as good. The 13th is just 151 yards but is played to a tiny, pie-slice green wedged into the hillside. Bang it into the hill behind the green and it might just roll back down to give you a putt for birdie. If it stays up, however, you'll need nerves of steel and a pinch of luck to chip it down and hold the surface. On 17, golfers need to swat a long iron up the hill to a narrow two-tiered green that drops off to wilderness on the right.
And
it is the wilderness -- the bears that frequent the fairways,
the 400 elk that rut on the course every fall, the eagles that
swoop in from the tree-coated slopes - that is what really makes
this experience worthy. For there are some holes, especially on
the front nine, that, on their own merit, are rather bland. But
this intense beauty, the unfathomable work of the glaciers, is
simply stirring. It's the reason why they solicited the guidance
of Thompson in the first place. So, half-heartedly and full of
the drink he came. But something tells me he left feeling a bit
humbled, sobered, moved by Mother Nature's might. And, if you
too venture here, perhaps you too will realize that going to Waterton
Lakes isn't all that bad after all.
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The verdict
Waterton Lakes Golf Course is an untouched relic. It's rustic, it's old, and it plays easy compared to most contemporary courses. Walkers will enjoy one of the nicest - and easiest - strolls possible for 18 holes of mountain golf. However, the golf course itself is not overly impressive. For the most part, the lasting impressions here are derived from the spine-tingling scenery and the abundant wildlife.
Stay and Play
The town of Waterton has a limited selection of places to stay. Nonetheless, it is still a selection. The Bayshore Inn (888-527-9555) offers basic lakeside rooms in the center of town and would be a good choice. Also, the historic Prince of Wales Hotel (403-236-3400) should also be considered, if nothing else than for the majestic views and the unique experience. For modern suites, complete with fireplaces, whirlpools, and lofts (not all rooms), the best choice would be Glacier Mountain Suites (403-859-2004).
Dining
The Lamp Post Dining Room in the Kilmorey Lodge has been a staple here for many years. Their award-winning menu, which features dishes from around the world prepared with Alberta flair, is complemented by great service, great value, and a warm atmosphere. Other restaurants to try include the Lakeside Kootenai Brown Dining Room & Fireside Lounge in the Bayshore Inn and the Wolf's Den Lounge at the Waterton Lakes Lodge.
Any opinions expressed above are those of the writer and do not necessarily represent the views of the management. The information in this story was accurate at the time of publication. All contact information, directions and prices should be confirmed directly with the golf course or resort before making reservations and/or travel plans.
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