The 91-room Westin Bear Mountain Victoria Resort & Spa opened in May 2006, to complement two Jack Nicklaus golf courses. (Courtesy Bear Mountain Resort)

Golf in Victoria: A little slice of island life in British Columbia

By Jason Scott Deegan,
Senior Contributor

Three of the best courses on the Vancouver Island Golf Trail - Bear Mountain, Arbutus Ridge and Olympic View - call Victoria home, along with another local favorite, Cordova Bay Golf Club. Combined, they add up to a fab foursome for golfers in Vancouver.

VICTORIA, B.C. - Victoria's Inner Harbor buzzes with activity. Every few minutes, a single-propeller sea plane takes off, soaring toward the horizon. Water ferries act as cabs, shuttling tourists to all points along the water's perimeter. Small pleasure boats drift out to sea for an afternoon of fun and sun.

Along the coastline, runners and moms pushing strollers follow a paved path around the harbor. Tourists snap pictures of the jaw-dropping scenery: the downtown on one side, the ocean on the other. This setting is the pulse, the lifeblood, of one of Canada's coolest cities. Welcome to Victoria on Vancouver Island, the capital of British Columbia.

It is a big city - it's regional population is more than 300,000 - with a small-town feel. It's clean, green and relatively safe. Victoria is considered not only Canada's most walkable city, but its residents are also the fittest, according to government statistics. This town loves its outdoors. Vancouver Island's temperate climate and dramatic natural landscapes, combining the mountains and the sea, make outdoor pursuits a way of life.

Come summer, golf plays just as big a part as cycling or hiking. Some of the province's best courses are less than a half-hour's driving from the city center. Three of the best courses on the Vancouver Island Golf Trail - Bear Mountain Golf and Country Club, Arbutus Ridge Golf and Country Club and Olympic View Golf Club - call Victoria home, along with another local favorite, Cordova Bay Golf Club. Combined, they add up to a fab foursome for players.

Bear Mountain Resort, and its 1,300-acre real estate development, has grown from the vision of former pro hockey player Len Barrie, who is backed by a number of his NHL pals.

The Jack/Steve Nicklaus-designed Bear Mountain Golf & Country Club has a slope of 152, one of the highest in Canada. Even the Bear himself took a mulligan during a visit earlier last year.

It's a brutal test with mind-boggling elevation changes. Bunkers and wetland hazards cut through fairways, forcing players to navigate cautiously. The island green at the 152-yard 11th hole pays tribute to the 17th hole at the TPC of Sawgrass, home to the Players Championship.

Bear Mountain's 19th hole, a 141-yard par-3 built to settle up bets, sits at the top of the property between the 14th and 15th holes, overlooking nearby Victoria, the Juan de Fuca Strait and beyond, Mount Baker and the Olympic Mountains in the state of Washington. Go ahead and play it just for thrills. Another Nicklaus course is under construction, with a scheduled opening in 2008.

"This is a gorgeous parcel of land for a golf course," Nicklaus told media members at the grand opening event. "The people will enjoy playing here as it has so much to offer. They won't get tired of playing it. There are also some unbelievable views."

Few courses in Canada can match the wow factor of Bear Mountain, but Olympic View Golf Club comes close.

A 50-foot waterfall roars behind the 17th green, visible from the tee 417 yards away. The scene overshadows what is an outstanding strategic layout with highlights at every turn. The 335-yard 12th plays mind games with players as water runs along the left side of a thin fairway. The par-5 18th climbs upward toward the clubhouse, where the views from the patio alone are worth the greens fee.

The 6,168-yard Arbutus Ridge Golf & Country Club has a docile start, but makes up for it with a worthy finishing stretch, beginning at the downhill par-4 12th hole. The peninsula green at the 214-yard 17th hole demands your best swing of the day.

Cordova Bay, which is not a member of the golf trail, best serves the locals because it's playable and priced right. Play it first as a warm-up round. Otherwise you'll be disappointed. It just doesn't have the personality of the other three.

The verdict

Perhaps no other city in Canada offers a better combination of good, affordable golf and a downtown, with such style, such personality. The climate, which isn't as wet as you might be led to believe, allows its courses to stay open year-round, another bonus.

Be sure to spend at least one night at a downtown property. It will allow you time to explore the area. Also make a point to play Bear Mountain. Neither picture nor words can put its star power into perspective. It might be one of the best mountain layouts in North America.

Stay and play

The Delta Ocean Pointe Resort & Spa welcomes guests with the best view of the inner harbor. It is on the opposite shores of downtown buildings and the capital, which are both vibrantly lit at night.

Across the harbor, the Victoria Regent Hotel wins high praise for its suites, perfectly suited for a foursome, and its location on Wharf Street, just minutes from the downtown's eateries, shopping and night life. The suites are big enough to call home, with comfortable living rooms and kitchens and balconies that overlook the harbor.

Twenty minutes outside the city, the 91-room Westin Bear Mountain Victoria Resort & Spa, which opened in May 2006, now overshadows the original 65-room "Fairways" lodge, which opened in 2004.

The new Westin, perched above the 18th green, exudes luxury with deluxe guest rooms and one- and two-bedroom suites, ranging from 465 to 2,490 square feet. The Sante Spa, a state-of-the-art fitness center and five restaurants, including the sushi bar Kuma Sushi, serve a growing community.

Tea time at the Fairmont Empress Hotel draws thousands of tourists each year. This hotel, designed by famous architect Francis Rattenbury, wins awards annually as one of Fairmont's flagship properties.

Victoria dining

The choices in Victoria's vibrant, bustling downtown are endless.

Victoria's Chinatown is the oldest in Canada. Fan Tan Alley, North American's narrowest street, was once notorious for its opium dens and gambling houses, but now is lined with shops and restaurants serving authentic food.

The Swans Suite Hotel & Brewpub, a legendary haunt on Pandora Avenue, is known as Victoria's Art Hotel for the more than 1,600 pieces of an eclectic collection hanging in its Wild Saffron Bistro, 29-suite hotel and pub. Hanging flower pots decorate the exterior. Delicacies such as rack of lamb occupy the bistro's menu. Swans also brews its own beer and serves many local wines.

Away from the downtown, Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub, a popular hangout for live music, offers a unique beer and chocolate combination. If you're hankering for Italian, try Il Terrazzo Ristorante for an intimate candlelit experience.

December 13, 2007

Jason Scott Deegan has reviewed more than 400 courses and golf destinations for some of the industry's biggest publications. His work has been honored by the Golf Writer's Association of America and the Michigan Press Association. Click here to read his golf blog.